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1 Constitution Cords
These are very heavy cotton cloths and the broadest cords made. Heavy fustian looms are required to weave them. The design is usually on 12 ends and 12 picks requiring 8 staves. A variety made in Oldham is 31 in full 42 reed 300 picks per inch 2/30's twist 18's weft. The reed and weft vary every alternate pile pick is securely, bound in the cloth which makes it firm. Constitutions and cables have broad floats or races, which are some distance apart and are usually cut by machines of two kinds. No 1 machine is provided with a number of circular discs corresponding to that of the races to be cut. These discs are mounted on a revolving shaft and as the cloth passes underneath the discs sever the float threads. No 2 comprises a specially formed knife supported in a moveable holder, which is traversed laterally the distance from one cord to another, after each length of cut is completed. The cloth to be cut is presented to the knife at a convenient angle, and is caused to meet the edge of the knife by means of revolving rollers around one of which it is wound as the cutting proceeds. The machine has an automatic stop motion which operates immediately a fault is made.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Constitution Cords
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2 Fustian
A term given to the class of cotton fabrics which includes corduroys, moleskins, constitution cords, cords, etc., used for clothing purposes. Beaverteens, imperials and swansdowns are also fustians. They are all constructed to give a very strong, stout fabric. Fustian is mentioned as a species of cotton cloth used by the Normans, particularly by the clergy for their chasubles. The Cisterians were forbidden to wear chasubles of any material but linen or fustian. Stronger fustian was first manufactured at Norwich in the reign of Edward VI. It was much used for doublets and jackets in the 15th century. Fustian was originally woven at Fustat, on the Nile, with a linen warp and thick cotton weft, in twill weave, cut after weaving to give a thick low pile.
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